Page 139 - Simply Abu Dhabi Magazine VII

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S I M P LY A B U DH A B I
I
n
1828,
Pierre-Francois-Pascal
Guerlain started business as a
Parfumeur Vinaigrier, opening a
boutique at 42 Rue de Rivoli. All the courts
of Europe fought over his creations. He
became their official supplier, providing
fragrances to Queen Victoria, Queen
Isabelle of Spain, the unforgettable Sissi,
empress of Austria, as well as the courts of
Central Europe and that of Saint
Petersburg with Bouquet de Furstemberg
and Eau de Cologne Russe.
His motto, which appeared on the
pediment of the factory, became the
corporate credo and every employee had to
know it and, most importantly, apply it!
“Make good products and never
compromise on quality. As for the rest,
stick to simple ideas and apply them
scrupulously.”
This declaration of faith was passed on
from generation to generation. In 1853,
Pierre-Francois-Pascal’s fame reached new
heights. Her Majesty Empress Eugenie
gave him the title of “His Majesty’s official
Perfumer” after the perfumer created the
masterly Eau de Cologne Impériale
exclusively for her.
The discovery of new fragrances falls
within the perfume creators’ purview.
Using scents found deep in the heart of far-
off lands, the perfumer works like an
alchemist to blend ingredients which, at
first glance, seem fairly unattractive. This
was the case with oak moss, which
captivated Pierre-Francois Pascal. The
perfumer paid homage to it by creating, in
1840, the first chypré fragrance, simply
named Chypre.
As the 19th century drew to a close,
attitudes and tastes gradually changed.
Artists’ imaginations were fired by the
Orient, Asia, and even Africa. With the
advent of steamboats, the lure of travelling
to different places inspired a tendency for
exotism. This changing climate formed the
backdrop against which Aimé, Pierre-
Francois-Pascal’s son, (who was promoted
to the position of Perfumer), was to create
his new fragrances. He recognized the
importance of travel and was determined
to draw his inspiration from other places.
Some of his creations, dating from 1870s,
bear witness to this willingness to venture
beyond the frontiers of France: United
States Perfume, Violette d’Alger, Syringa
du Japon, Moskwskaia, Oppobalsam de la
Mecque, and Fleur d’Italie, to name but a
few.
Aimé entered the perfumers’ hall of fame
when he created his remarkable, and
provocative, fragrance, Jicky, in 1889. The
fragrance symbolized a shift in attitudes
and brought about a change in perfume
manufacturing, owing to the use for the
first time of synthetic products, without
which none of the great perfumes would
have been possible.
Jacques Guerlain, Aimé’s nephew was
initiated into the art of making perfume
when he was barely sixteen. He produced
nearly 400 women’s fragrances. His
greatest success was, undoubtedly,
Shalimar, which introduced the family of
oriental perfumes in 1925, when the
Decorative Art Exhibition was setting the
trend for a rich and inventive new style that
showcased the most precious material and
rarest essential oils.
“A successful perfume is one whose
fragrance corresponds to an initial dream.”
Jacques Guerlain
The “Marco Polo of essential oils”, Jean-
Paul Guerlain, Jacques’ grand-son, has
been bitten by the travel bug and his
passion for setting off for somewhere new
has never waned. Jean-Paul shops for sweet
scents all over the world. He travels to
Grasse for the May rose, Calabria for
Bergamot, and the Nile delta or India for
Jasmine. But travelling the world is not
enough. He owns his own land and
produces his own essential oil. He has a
vanilla and ylang-ylang plantation in
Mayotte and he distils orange blossom in
Tunisia.
“Perfume is the most intense form of
memory.” – Jean-Paul Guerlain
In 2008 Thierry Wasser became Guerlain’s
Exclusive Perfumer and follows Guerlain’s
tradition as scent explorer.
“Before me, the previous Guerlain
perfumers travelled all over the world in an
on-going quest to find the most wonderful
raw ingredients for their perfumes. It is a
job, a passion, and even an irrepressible
need. Each time, when the adventure
comes to an end, a new travel journal is
added to the previous ones, with a wealth
of images, sensations, scents and emotions.
Barely returned, you feel the desire to set
off again, as witnessed by this suitcase
placed at my door, always ready to
accompany me once more along the
perfume routes.”
Once again, a travel to the Middle East was
at the origin of his last creation, Les Déserts
d’Orient.
There would be no great fragrances
without the Orient… Thierry Wasser,
Guerlain’s perfumer-creator, wanted to
demonstrate this concept in his own way,
with sumptuousness and freedom, while
giving dazzling expression to the notes that
make these lands an inexhaustible source
of inspiration.
From the dawn of time, frankincense,
roses, orange blossoms, herbs, spices,
wood, amber, myrrh, saffron and benzoin,
to name a few, have been venerated for
both religious and cultural reasons. The
great prophets recommended perfume as a
means of distinction and employed it
during essential smoke rituals. From this
almost sacred olfactory heritage, and by the
grace of the perfumer, Les Déserts d’Orient
collection was developed with precise
motivations and an infinitely voluptuous
atmosphere.
Discover the three fragrances in selected
stores in the GCC only :
• Rose nacrée du désert
Woody floral - An intense rose, a bold
flower, an established mystery…
• Encens mythique d'Orient
Oriental musk - A smoky effect, aromatic
waves, a divine emotion...
• Songe d'un bois d'été
Leather - A deep leather, sumptuous
woods, supreme momentum…
Retail price : USD 270
Thescent explorersof