Simply Abu Dhabi XX

1 6 3 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Interspersing the classic monochromes and muted neutrals are bold colours, prints and motifs, including hot pink and a sulphurous orange. The exotic is referenced through a leopard print ponyskin on a biker jacket and matching skirt and a python print on sheer crepe. Beyond the exotica of leopard and cobra, print exemplifies the mixed concepts within the collection. Dadaist-inspired collages on sweats and T-shirts compete with iconic images from Egyptian mythology, including a linear rendition of Osiris, God of the underworld, and a sacred image of a mummified cat, overprinted onto sequined sweatshirts. Denim remains prominent within the collection, offering a wider range of surface finishes than ever before, all in a more relaxed silhouette. Bleach effects hark back to classic 1970s youth culture or are modernised simply by leaving an unbleached stripe at the side of the leg, reminiscent of a tuxedo trouser. This punk sensibility continues in a variety of skirt shapes, from weathered leather minis to a double- layered wraparound kilt – which can be split and worn separately as two separate garments. Such innovation is evident in many of the fabrications and processes employed. The clever use of studs – either randomly scattered over garment surfaces, or as a hidden embellishment within the pleat of a kilted skirt – demonstrate that this is far a more versatile applique than a simple biker embellishment. Ultra-thin cork, traditionally used in the footwear industry, lends an unexpected suppleness to tailoring, particularly when lightly foiled to create a metallic sheen. When it comes to the footwear for this collectionMcQueen is keeping it diverse, offering both casual and formal alternatives. The choice includes traditional monk shoes with a flat fastening to replace a buckle, a Chelsea boot with a winkle-picker toe and an architectural mule with a mirrored razor fin heel, plus a versatile wedge sandal and a calf length boo.