Simply Abu Dhabi XX

A diverse range of knitwear offers classic staples that range from fine gauge merino wool roll necks to contrasting coloured ribs in black and cobalt blue. A breadth of trouser shapes offers further opportunity for experimentation. Calf length culottes, taking inspiration from the tobi shokunin or Japanese construction worker, are complemented by classic straight-cut denim jeans, jersey long Johns and a tapered peg-top trouser in a subtle jacquard. Burton also brought a distinct military association in army green and air force blue, epaulets and army pockets, and the diamanté medals that decorated the show's finale. The words "truth", "valour" and "honour" were emphatically bold on jackets and coats. There were also pinstripes – the uniform of the boardroom. Graphic elements within the collection vary between the subtle and the sinister. Some are part of the decorative vernacular: a restrained floral shirt, an oversized Madras check sweatshirt and an elegantly subdued camouflage seen in both knitwear, jersey and woven jacquards. Other elements boast more esoteric origins that are combined with classic subcultural motifs – a grainy Xerox of a tattooed tongue licks its way down a pinstripe shirtfront and a technical nylon bomber is intersected by the word “CHAOS”. Grounding the McQ collection is the broad range of accessories, from printed neckerchiefs and classic bullet belts to footwear that offers both classic formality and subversion through a variety of finishes including burnished ombre leathers, snakeskins and a signature orange splashmotif on a treated denimDerby that evokes the ferocity of a volcanic eruption. 2 0 9 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I