Simply Abu Dhabi XXXV

2 9 4 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I O nly a short plane ride from mainland Asia is what it takes to touch down on the island of Langkawi. In the midst of the Andaman Sea, adjacent to the Thai border, lies this treasure island known as ‘Jewel of Kendah’ and part of the Malay islets archipelago. Altogether 99 different-sized islets are counted, excluding the five which are only uncovered during low tide. Rainforest refuge The name Langkawi translates to ‘the land of one’s wishes’, a genuine contender for making everyone’s bucket list destination and so it became mine for my stay. The island’s exuberating flora and well- balanced fauna are the reasons to make the heart skip a beat (or two) due to its extraordinary beauty—a sheer contrast to the island’s historic origins as a reputed refuge for pirates. Here, uncrowded white sands and clear waters are flanked by lush green forests. Known as one of the oldest rainforests in the world, the lush Langkawi green forests cover the hillsides, which seem to roll into the turquoise blue seas below. In this setting, along unpolluted mangroves where monkeys, otters, kingfishers and hornbills roaming freely, I long for an even further escape. One to uncover the secrets of these emerald forests, centuries old fauna, that has thus far acted as our oxygen supply and the island’s natural pharmacy— several herbs and plants with medicinal property have been discovered through time. Natural beauty unearthed Langkawi is clean, green and friendly—in 2007 it received the UNESCO geopark status. The status, awarded by UNESCO, emphasises not only the natural beauty of Langkawi but also its sustainable socio-economic development. Mangroves rich in flora and fauna are prominent, allowing a deeper understanding of the global ecosystem. And still is yet to be discovered by the masses. Datai Bay, located on Pulau Langkawi, is a heavenly retreat on the Andaman Sea. Closed off to the rest of the island by the ancient old rainforest, I am neighbours with wild birds as well as the enigmatic nocturnal animals. This calming environment is slowly unearthing its secrets as I linger between the green foliage, the coastal lowland forests, home to the long-tailed macaque, which are also known as crab-eating macaques. Not for no reasons the resorts ask to keep balcony doors closed and precious items inside—these monkeys are just as cute as curious. In the treetops the oriental-pied hornbill ‘claps’ its large yellow bill to make contact with its significant others. And not far frommy side the largest of leaves are hiding spots for little insects and tiny stand-on- their-own ecosystems. The trek through the forest is tough, a little slippery too, as the discovery starts at the bottom and we walk up to higher grounds. Exchanging the most interesting of information is my guide, a proud local who has been passed down tales and facts from generations above him. He shines a light on the fauna surrounding us, literally as he explains why insects a do not fly into the light, yet into the dark behind the light—a fact I will log in my travel story for future reference (and now yours to keep). Not for no reason Langkawi is known as the archipelago of the Fabulous Flying Five— flying snakes, flying squirrels, flying foxes, flying dragons and flying lemurs—to a whopping 238 bird species, there is a lot to unravel beneath the island’s foliage. For me, it was a mere encounter with monkeys, Langakwai is known home to two different types of monkeys—the more shy species resides in the denser forest and once you have spotted this mammal with its white rings around the eyes, you can be certain to spot some of its family members nearby. I have booked not only a nature walk with a guide, but a kayaking tour through the mangroves in my week on one of the many islands. I even opt for a boat trip to discover the beauty of the life below the water surface as well as some of the surrounding islets. I am here to discover nature at its best and I am sure to find it. Meandering river passages Canoeing through mangroves is just as magical as it is unforeseen, the low waters and roots of trees make for entrapments filled with crabs, fish and other unexpected habitants. Depending on the tidal conditions, the kayaking begins at the coast and ends up river or begins upriver and ends down at the coast. The slow pace of the kayak makes it great to experience the serenity of the river among the mangrove forest reserve and venture into its network of meandering river passages. Here, many exotic plants and animal species that have adapted ingenious ways to thrive in a habitat dictated by the ebb and flow of the ocean tides. Mangrove forests play an essential part in maintaining the ecological balance of the world. They influence the climate, provide shelter and act as major nurseries for fish and shrimps. I enjoy the sights of kingfishers, herons, mudskippers, fiddler crabs and monitor lizards (the unexpected), then pass a native coal island where the locals live surrounded by blackened trees and branches—a sheer contrast to the nearby superabundance of the purest plantation one can imagine. Magical islands and rich foliage The boat tour sets off from a tiny harbour late in the day. The goal is to experience the waters along a nearby islet beach and finding out about one of the 99 islands’ magical waters and where nearby, the fruit bats escaping their hiding place—some formed over 550 million years ago—during twilight. We leave the harbour in full speed, passing limestone cliffs and rugged inlets exposed to the dehydrating sun, wind and salt from the oceans which has resulted in the growth of a unique flora some of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Rain and the tidal movements have weathered and shaped these stunning formations giving rise to numerous caves, crevasses and canyons. Here is where at sunset, the fruit bats fly out and the sky becomes a disturbance of fast-paced bats looking for their evening meal. But before we reach, we drop anchor at a moon-shaped island. The clear, cool and deep waters are refreshing respite the heat of the midday sun. Reaching the curved white beach, a wall of rock formations looms up, at the top rich foliage—a wondrous sight. After entering the white sand, the rock seems to have opened around the corner where I get a peek at an almost secret garden, the inner core of the island, where to my surprise the tiniest orchid (not even the size of my pinkie nail) blooms. Up next is Pulau Dayang Bunting, also known as Pregnant Maiden Island, a perfect spot for witnessing Langkawi’s natural splendours. Even though the island is surrounded by the sea, the lake within, an actual underwater cave, is purely freshwater and legend has it, has fertile waters. From snorkelling amongst colourful corals enjoying the shallow waters to hiking the deep foliage of an ancient rainforest, all-in-all Langkawi’s natural charm is inescapable. Ancientoldfloraandfauna Discovering the Langkawi archipelago full of natural wonders B y L a u r a B r o w n