Simply Abu Dhabi XI

1 6 4 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I P ower resides in many places. This Autumn/Winter, Chloe has placed it in the hands of young girls, specifically imagined as those journeying home on a night bus. The adolescent, nonchalant teenager taking on the social melting pot of a late-night public bus; the girl leaving the safety of the home for the first time to venture out alone. She is young, cool, subversive. She mixes tough, army surplus boots with feminine tea dresses, a beaten up bag and liberal piercings. She’ll wear a utilitarian parka, hefty leather boots and a floaty, ironic skirt. Essentially it is back to school, but not a St Trinian’s knee-length sock in sight. Instead, the free spirit and raw power of schoolgirls has been translated through the sublime French filter into slouchy, effortless elegance by Chloe’s creative director, Clare Waight Keller. Night buses, independent spirit, bare legs, dorm rooms, bike sheds and flirting are the inspiration. In her fourth season for the house, Waight Keller has firmly stamped her own, polished tomboy mark on the label, and it’s her best collection to date. She has drawn on her experience of growing up in gritty Birmingham, UK, to forge a look that makes school look cool without alienating any age demographic. Here, modern British urbanism – brought by the creative excellence of an English designer – clashes with a very French label, all refinement and sharp tailoring, to spectacular effect. The parka is a chic but oversized double- face cape in vibrant blue or pearl grey, or a felted black wool duffle. Coats are structured but loose – from a wool felt caban to a shaggy shearling coat, military peacoats and fur vests. The skirt is knee length and A-line in a tweed or feather- soft fur with a zip running up the side. In fact, the skirt is de rigeur; trousers, whilst catered to, seemout of vogue this year. It’s teamed with a crisp white shirt or bibbed blouse. Bags are slung over the shoulder and substantial, like large satchels, with elaborate clasps. But in place of battered leather, you have glossy deep red crocodile or butter soft calfskin. Shoes are boxy and sensible with a full heel to bring that hint of a feminine calf to an otherwise tomboyish vibe. Feminine bib front shirts, straights skirts, shift dresses and full leg, pleat front trousers complete the picture. Evening overalls that look like a boyish boiler suit and ruffled pinafores have experienced an unexpected revival alongside polka dot tops, graphic sweatshirts and soft blue leather jogging trousers. Strategic use of robust, masculine material such as leather and metal add a ‘boyfriend’ sense to the collection, remarkably without losing its girlishness. The catwalk show saw an overdress and overtop made of chain link fencing embedded with paste jewels. Eccentric touches such as the little dress

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