Simply Abu Dhabi XI

Y ou knowyou can expect vamp and crisp tailoring from D&G. This season does not disappoint. Proudly Italian, it’s little wonder that Dolce & Gabbana have looked to their roots for inspiration for Autumn- Winter 2013. They found it in a small church in Sicily, Santa MariaNuova, aNorman cathedral inMonreale filledwith golden mosaics and Christian iconography. For such a relatively small landmass, it’s incredible that the pair have been able to mine Sicily for inspiration for more than 30 years and counting. Even the models at the catwalk launch were made up to look like Italian siren, Sophia Loren. Gold chandelier earrings, bewitching regal crowns, golden shoes, bejewelled, embroidered and mosaicked dresses – some of the models to tread the catwalk at the collection’s launch could have been chapels embodied; ancient queens; Byzantine Empresses; Joan of Arc; Lady Guinevere. The autumn-winter collection from the label is classically opulent and you’d expect nothing less of Stefan Gabanna andDomenicoDolce. It is a riot of vibrant colour, religious iconography, raw talent, immaculate tailoring and Italianate flavours.Mosaic-effect prints have been transferred towool organza tunic dresses or enamelled onto sunglasses. Fluid fluted sleeves on short shifts next to sculpted tailoring, few items overly rigid for risk of trammelling the fashion frescoes. Katy Perry and Scarlett Johansson have already been seenwearing the fresco dresses in very different ways. Even the Italian widow is referenced in feature black lace dresses and sculpted coats heavily accessorised with costume jewellery. Dare I suggest a hint of the Sicilian Mafiawith thewidows and overt Sixties flavours? But aside fromthe blackwidows, pigment colours of red, green, blue and golden yellow are in fine array. Signature Dolce tailoring is not buried too far beneath the mosaic exterior. Clean custom-made lines cast in charcoal herringbone are visible throughout the collection, echoing the crisp classics of the Forties and Fifties. Volume is added to the occasional sleeve but it never compromises the clean line of the master tailor. Structured bodies add a rigidity to the richly traditional collection. Yet, ever naughty, the tailoring extends to herringbone knickers for some of the most daring pieces. Shoes are spectacular, encompassing everything from baby-kitten heels to giant wedges, all in gold filigree and gemstones. Caged heels adorned shoes that shimmered with flowers. In fact, the accessories are to die for. Expect lengthy queues and well-mannered scraps for the new crocodile skin, box-shaped bag named after Agata, patron saint of Cantania. But by far themost eye-catching in the collection are those in Papal crimson, sewn of lace and silk. It’s classic Dolce & Gabbana and we wouldn’t want it any other way. 1 7 4 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I