Simply Abu Dhabi XI

1 8 8 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I C anadian twins Dean and Dan Caten debuted their Autumn/Winter 2013 line in Milan at the city’s menswear fashion week to rapturous applause. The pair can be inconsistent in their design offering, but this year was a good year. The twin brothers from Ontario Canada, the youngest of nine children, honed their skills at fashion giants Gianni Versace and Diesel before committing to their own house. Since then Britney Spears, Madonna, Justin Timberlake, Ricky Martin, Nicholas Cage and Lenny Kravitz have all been spotted sporting their clothes. They’re known for showmanship; in 2005 Christina Aguilera stripped male models of their clothes. In 2007 Rihanna walked the runway on their behalf. ‘La Nouvelle Noir’, as the showwas called, channelled the great Jazz Age in the style of consummate showmen. There’s little ‘new’ about it; more a spectacular renaissance of old classics. Bugsy Malone, smoky clubs and off-duty GIs. Glamorous gangster. The show featured a legion of sculpted black male models playing bebop hepcats and showing the collection against beautiful complexions and taut bodies. They all looked like they were enjoying the show and – crucially – enjoying the clothes. It’s one of the best seasons yet. Old school jazz clubs were the inspiration that gave rise to distinct collars, oversized fedora hats in a multitude of colours, military touches such as epaulettes and khaki tones, narrow ties, strong glasses and their signature wide- legged, distressed jeans. The 1940s were all the rage this season – the Downton Abbey effect? Nostalgia is the toast of the day. Tweed, plaid and denim featured strongly. Plaid blazers were jazzed up (forgive the pun) with satin lapels. Military precision was reflected in over-tailored coats and jackets in colours of classic camel, grey flannel and Black Watch tartan. The Napoletano jacket is one of the lynchpin pieces, immaculately created but unlined to give the impression of ease and comfort. White bibbed shirts over a checked base reminded followers of the appetite for formal sportswear. A paisley silk smoking robe looked gloriously indulgent, while the dress shirts and waistcoats bedecked with floral embroidery and jet beading could be worn off the rail. Trousers were ankle skimming or turned up. Midnight blue silky numbers ran razor-sharp creases down the front. Pockets were decorated with silk handkerchiefs. Cable knits in pea green enlivened otherwise safe outfits. If you take one thing away from the show, let it be that red socks go with everything. Astrakhan – a curled pile fabric that mirrors astrakhan fur – was a new move for the pair, adding a luxury grown-up edge. Accessories were particularly impressive. The man-bag has sprung to prominence in the last decade, and it is growing increasingly sophisticated. DSquared has asserted itself at the front of the fashion pack.