Simply Abu Dhabi XI

2 2 2 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I T his is British-born Brendan Mullane’s first season at Brioni, the independent family-owned Italian style house which was named the most prestigious men’s fashion brand in the United States in 2007 and 2011, according to an independent survey conducted by the Luxury Institute of New York. The new creative director, the former head menswear designer at Givenchy (with Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Alexander McQueen all featuring on his CV) has delivered a formidable first collection. Sharp tailoring has become the mainstay of men’s fashion in more recent years, away from the deconstructed looks of the Nineties. It’s an area in which Mullane clearly excels. This is an out-the-park impressive season. Brioni CEO Francesco Pesci says of the appointment: “Brendan has a sharp understanding of the brand, extensive experience in menswear design and a great creative talent across several categories. He also brings with him an understanding of the spirit of Brioni in this new phase of creation. We will work closely with Brendan to take the next steps for the brand. Brioni today possesses formidable potential, which I am confident will be successfully harnessed and realized through Brendan’s vision.” Founded in Rome in 1945, Brioni is known for pleasing sophisticated clients thanks to an established savoir-faire. It has international appeal thanks to an intrinsic reputation for sartorial elegance and contemporary style, producing impeccable formal wear, leisure wear, accessories and eyewear. It’s a label that has always appealed to men of a certain age and wallet. The only difference today, with fresh blood at the helm, is the emergence of a slightly trendier, more youthful season, albeit one that remains true to the Brioni DNA. This is an evolution rather than a revolution. Exceptional tailoring abounds. It’s the lynchpin. Double-breasted suits and wool parkas were stand-outs. Coats, capes and cover-ups are draped over shoulders – the tartan blanket effect is particularly memorable. Layering was as prominent here as in the women’s collections and elsewhere in menswear this season. Mullane claims his inspiration is a business trip on the trans-Siberian railway, encouraging cosy but smart separates in indulgently comforting fabrics. Every combination centres on the image of an upright businessman travelling with style and panache. He is always impeccably presented; his clothes show expensive good taste, his bag is crocodile leather. Fur collars, a suede jacket in berry purple, bowties, cravats, shiny tipped brogues and broad silhouettes were seen at the launch catwalk show on models with uniformly clean-shaven faces and slicked-back hair. Slim- fitting jackets and trousers in wool and cashmere are paired with silk ties and crisp shirts. Burgundy lambswool blouson jackets and detachable collars appear next to chic masculine shawls. Briefcases, document holders, wallets and travel bags in crocodile and luxury leathers support the collection, along with gold cufflinks created in collaboration with Frederikson Stallard. Shoes are classic: lace-up oxfords in shiny patent leather. Maroon is the statement colour of choice, adding a rich hue to the otherwise dark and icy cool palette of greys and greens, like a winter’s day. Beige, dark brown, grey, charcoal, midnight blue (a huge colour this season), burgundy and sapphire all feature. Tactile fabrics are the order of the day: wool, baby cashmere, vigogna, silk, mixed wool, mink fur. “I’m very glad and honoured to join such a prestigious house as Brioni, whose quintessential Italian timeless elegance has gained worldwide recognition in menswear,” says Mullane. “I’m looking forward to work with Brioni’s sartorial artisans to continue developing the brand while staying true to its roots.” It’s timeless, it’s elegant, it’s wearable. In Mullane, Brioni have made a sagacious choice.