SimplyAbuDhabi XII

T he latter decades of the last century are very well represented on the catwalk this season. Versace has referenced the 80s and 90s; Cruciani revived the 70s. For the impeccable brand that is Salvatore Ferragamo, it is the 60s that has been adopted as the muse, in everything from form, cuts, lengths and fabrics. Legs are coquettishly revealed in skimmingly short skirts or very tight trousers. It’s very sensual. Coats are all double-breasted and often belted at the waist. Geometric shapes have been popular throughout the fashion world, and Ferragamo is no exception. Modern figures are crafted through movement and layering. Oversized items counterbalance their skimpy bedfellows. This is a strong-jawed, angular season. Head designers Massimiliano Giornetti has acted as an architect as much as a fashion designer. Each piece is precisely cut and as neat as is achievable. Textures are consistent and the sheer craftsmanship is truly exceptional. The tailoring is so uniform, so precise, that it’s almost masculine. We have pinstripe suits with cheeky PVC inserts. That’s why Giornetti has softened and enhanced items with details such as metallic embroidered waistlines. Autumnal and evoking winter, a selection of reductionist colours is in force across the catwalk. Midnight blues, blacks and grey are out in force for this more dour time of the year, but they are enlivened with creams and whites. The powerful colour palette paints intense hues of Barolo red, black, red and ivory, with masterful and fresh hints of teal. Paler colours reflect the light, thanks to a playful use of high-gloss and satin fabrics – just as in the 60s – set next to wool and cotton for contrast. Fabrics are both hardwearing and tactile: dry silk wool, hand line nylon, pony-like wool, alpaca, mohair and even beaver fur. Zips add blunt, scarred paths for contours. Scoop neck tops add movement and a shifting outline to binding tailoring. On the runway it was the footwear that stood out the most. Pointed shoes are back, but the Ferragamo version comes with t-bar straps connected to leg-warmer style leggings. They are laced or fastened with shiny straps and boast impossibly thin heels. Sleek, ultra-feminine and with an almost space-age undercurrent, they look delicious. Pumps and boots have been included for the non-heel inclined. Here you’ll find solid colour blocks, the sole matching the upper for maximum simplicity. Metallic details, metallic leather and clear PVC add a modern slant. Handbags are practical, large, rectangular and roomy and come in a fantastically eclectic mix of leather, shaved pony, glossy crocodile and PVC. Soft bags are enhanced by tassels, keys and locks. And the satchel lives on – small, flat and set on adjustable shoulder straps with a newly designed clasp. Accessories add a graphic dimension. Ties and knots hint at sensuality. PVC and patent details outline sculpture details and amplify shapes. Chinks of flesh are enhanced by delicate charms in white and yellow gold strung on necklaces and bracelets and hung around the wrist and neckline. There is a duality to this autumn-winter season. Severity versus levity. If you love retro, if you love classical tailoring but are game for a modern twist, this is the collection for you. 1 9 7 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I