SimplyAbuDhabi XII

Silvia Venturini Fendi represents the family business and she and Lagerfeld form a formidable team, with brave and innate senses of future iconoclasts. And a formidable strength of mind is required for such a bold move. Fun is in the detail. Fur is on bangles, belts, booties and sunglasses. Sam McKnight attached mohawks of fox fur to models’ heads on the catwalk. Silvia hung fur owls to her handbag, a miniature representation of the graceful eagles sliding down the runway. Julia Nobis closed the show with a fur coat woven in shades of pink and black, a graceful swan sweeping to the finale. Karl also used a material that he calls ‘leather feather fur’, skins fringed or trimmed to add texture. Leather is just as pervasive in the collection – unsurprising from a man surgically connected to his own leather gloves – woven into many separates as hybrid, very unique fashion. Silhouettes are clean and linear, slinky lines emphasised by billowing, oversized proportions. There are many geometric patterns, abstract elements combined with traditional pyjama patterns, maxi stripes and logos. Soft leather and crocodile skins are cut geometrically, meshed together with fabrics such as denim, cotton, silk and pelts seamlessly. It’s a mosaic of pattern, texture and contrast. Natural colour juxtaposed jarringly with artificial to wonderful effect: white, black, canary yellow, ochre, lobster, concrete, beige, cornflower blue, midnight navy, coral, khaki and salmon. Precious materials are crafted into a very contemporary and wearable collection. It’s visually striking. A shift dress is patterned to appear as if woven fromwicker, trimmed with inky black to enhance the silhouette. There are nods towards sporty style, with casual trousers striped with colour gathered at the ankle above a pair of beautiful high heels. Wear this over a ribbed cape and you can go anywhere. Lines are straight and highlighted with bands of colour. Collars are high and striking. The meshing of colour and texture gives an almost harlequin effect and it’s delightful. Accessories of envelope-style handbags in multicolour and the familiar baguette bag add to the look. If you need a take-away for your own wardrobe, it seems that patterns are key. Mix them up. Throw the old rulebook out of the window. Clash your textures, colours and styles. Layer volumes and cinch with belts to enhance your figure. Use luxurious leathers and furs to stave off the winter chill (which makes us ponder why Lagerfeld’s shoes are so insubstantial). Down at the feet texture and colour remain playful. Two-tone mule sandals, patent sandals set with flower embellishments and an ankle strap. Printed scarves are worn around the neck and head. Neat belts cinch the waist where oversized volumes swamp the figure. It’s a modest collection, keeping displays of flesh to a minimum. Lagerfeld is a gift that just keeps giving. 2 4 1 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I