SimplyAbuDhabi XII

V E R S A C E I f your 80s power suit has been packed away in dusty attic trunks biding its time for the cyclical fashion renaissance, now is the time to get out the ladders and unearth this sartorial gem, for it is time to let it shine once again. This season Versace has called on pumped up, exaggerated volume to give a luxurious feel to the current collection. Generous swags of fabric are used, exaggerating shoulders and chests and slimming waists to create a strong silhouette evocative of a cartoon character. The skinny look so prevalent in catwalk and high street fashion for the last few years has been firmly relegated in favour of liberal cuts and billowing lines, sharpened with geometric prints and shapes and accessorised with time-honoured brogues, boots and leather gloves. The fine figures of the catwalk were swamped under ballooning trousers and baggy jackets. Waists are cinched to create strong profiles contoured and shaped with panelling and thoughtful embroidery detail. Then comes almost a second phase of the collection. The schizophrenic, clashing prints mixed with turn-ups, zip details, contrasting collars and edgy sunglasses. Creeper-soled, platform loafers (in dazzling patent with sublime bejewelled soles) sit alongside working and motorbike boots. There is pony skin nudging up against polished oxblood. Buckles, huge zips and chunky straps are the mainstay of the accessories line, next to equally chunky charm bracelets and elaborate signet-style rings with baroque edging and paired with chains. The man bag now employs a drawstring and is dual textured. Inspiration has been taken from Michael Jackson’s inimitable, power dressing trail blaze of the 80s, mixed with Amy Arbus photographs, the films of Norman Mailer, the New Romantics music genre and 90s rap stars. It’s quite the eclectic mix. Colours are muted, as with classical menswear collections, but given twists. Stark black and whites are used to striking impact. ‘Fritz Lang’ jacquards in tones of dark greys and blacks are punctuated with red threads amid the patterns. Checks, pinstripes and herringbone are mischievously adapted. Graphic prints are enhanced and boosted with large, swooping, curling motifs. The effect of classic Versace baroque alongside leather trousers, matador shaped tailoring and Doc Marten-esque boots that wouldn’t be amiss inNorthern Ireland of the 90s creates a punky, sexualised new look. Opulent fabrics have been key to raising the collection’s game. Supersized knits are enhanced and embellished. Shaved mink is paired with fox, and we also see breitschwanz, cashmere, baby camel and delicate beading. Oversized fur coats top bold, animal- inspired prints conjured into classic Versace tailoring. The cheetah, giraffe and zebra are but a few creatures from the animal kingdom represented in this fashion jungle. Hand-formed metal work is almost incongruously found alongside frilly lace underwear in a cheeky poke at conventional conceptions of masculinity. Little of it is take-away fashion: you’re unlikely to see male corsets in the high street anytime soon, but expect to see the shapes, colours, accessories and contours eagerly adopted into ready-to-wear collections. The colour of the moment? Dusky cornflower blue. Big is indeed beautiful. 2 5 6 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I