SimplyAbuDhabi XIV

2 1 6 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I DiorHomme Spring Summer 2014 C ombining sportswear with more tailored style has become something of a trademark for Kris Van Assche, artistic director for Dior Homme since 2007, known for his classic precision and rigorous attention to detail. Underscoring this season’s lineup is the concept of a ‘tuxedo on the beach’, where the trousers have turned into shorts, where a jacket has lost its sleeves, where the tailored elegance is imbued with an oceanfront nonchalance. The effect is laid-back and natural. Satin bands drawn from formalwear find a new context as they appear in unexpected ways throughout the collection. The looks follow on in succession like pieces in a game of dominos, each drawing on an element of the one that came before - a colour, an insert, a length. Added to the usual black tones are prune, Prussian blue and slate gray, to be found as a solid or a patchwork, outlining a structure here, creating a graphic effect there. They're like blocks of colour that change position on the body, from one look to the next. Effects and reflections multiply these aspects and heighten the colour palette. There’s a reference to such abstract painters as Mondrian or Malevitch in the way the piecing of the fabric serves to sketch out a new kind of geometry. With a strong focus on suits, Dior Homme creates new shapes with varying lengths and textures, but above all else is the impeccable tailoring and simple cuts. Trench coats, blazers, cropped blouson jackets, vests and shirts – all are paired with suit pants and shorts featuring unusual pleating and patterns. In terms of accessories, shoes feature soles with a metallic insert; and bags, document holders and messenger bags pick up the colour combinations present in the clothes. Like the rest of the collection, the accessories also play with a mix of formal and sportswear – a delicate balancing act mastered by Kris Van Assche for Dior.