SimplyAbuDhabi XV

1 9 9 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Collection Autumn/Winter 2014/15 F or the Salvatore Ferragamo 2014/15 autumn/winter collection, Massimiliano Giornetti explores the tactile appeal of material and the organic quality of colour, envisaging awardrobewhere the purityof the tailoring stands out. The precise architecture of the construction, a defining trait of the Ferragamo style, acquires a new dimension, suggesting a merging of the urban environment and a more intimate lifestyle where privacy and the calm of domesticity dilutes metropolitan rigour, without eliminating it. Small but significant drifts in design characterise this focus towards the inner construction: weaves and nuances stolen from a rug and distributed on jackets and coats; the fringes of a blanket hidden in the yoke of a lining; a dressing gown that becomes outerwear. The silhouette, clean and sharp, is expressed through pieces that condense the basic language of men's garments, reinterpreting it in a compact and essential way: small blousons, shortened jackets, duffle coats, Ulster coats, pea coats, and slimly tailored trousers. This conciseness brings focus to the surfaces: never flat, varied colours, and sensory depth. Faded jacquards and graphic stripes on coats and field jackets, jerseys with voluptuous sleeves, weaves that seduce and invite closer examining, brushing that gives the tailoring a vibrant quality – all are on display. Inserts and overlap effects soften the level of precision: a hood that protrudes, leather details, a bomber jacket with knitwear sleeves. Shirts with embellished edges are re-imagined as utilitarian jackets. The colour palette is organic with unexpected intrusions: beige, cream, sesame, caramel, rusty notes and sage, contrasted with shades of blue, from Dutch to midnight. The quest for tactile depth, architectural precision, and rich colour continues in the accessories: the designs display extraordinary richness, delicate craftsmanship, clean lines, iconic details and original hues. The classical shoe is updated to meet the needs of a modern man, without compromising on comfort and functionality. For the new handmade stringata shoes, the shapes are more linear, the materials more traditional, polished with sophisticated finishes. The hand- woven footwear withmodern thin soles, pointed toes and low heels have a more dandy look. The Driver is the perfect example of the seasonal palette in its refined shades: Byson leather, the shimmering effect of Dutch blue, the warm tones of Bordeaux, and the elegant hue of dark silver. The gold buckles have become the iconic design piece, as well as the common thread between Driver belts and luggage. The same attention to detail characterises the more casual part of the collection, which offers a wider range of high sneakers designed using new material combinations – such as pony and crocodile inserts – textures and colours.