Simply Abu Dhabi Magazine XVI

1 9 1 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I ALEXANDER McQUEEN AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 G iven the memorable history of remarkable, theatrical Alexander McQueen lines, the label's latest menswear collection feels like a natural and suitable dramatic evolution. And as the new designs emerge with a clear and distinct aura of past successes, four years after McQueen’s passing, there’s the feeling that nostalgia and posthumous celebration are the underlying themes of the entire collection – yet the evocative range is entirely forward looking. The Autumn and Winter 2014 menswear collection from Alexander McQueen explores strong silhouettes with broad- shouldered lines and square tailoring. Incorporating long coats and fitted trousers to create a stylish and complementary mixture, the new range uses shape and texture to create bold lines and depth, with layers and details combining to add singularity to the components of the design. Using images and motifs expertly, a collection is born with both style and substance. The stark, monochromatic appearance of the clothing appears as a deliberate design reset. The inspiration of photographer John Deakin, who extensively photographed the Soho scene in the fifties and sixties, is reflected in a collection that appears devoid of clutter and fussiness, instead favouring simplicity and volume with striking lines and small, carefully weighted detail. With such subtle additions as scribbled text and poetry finding a place amongst the angular and industrial zips that interplay between classic tailoring and cuts, the overall effect is striking, genuine and aesthetically stunning – pure McQueen. Colours are sophisticated and muted with a palette that blends dark hues with underplayed style. Pattern and form are opulent, yet rich in inspiration from the photographic portraits of Lucien Freud and Oliver Bernard, with imagery appearing in the form of prints and weaves into the silken fabric of shirts and coats. Formally pleated kilts are used as decorative overlaying onto trousers and also as a reverse feature on long coats, with symmetrical lines and graphic motifs used as embellishment for the subtle shades and classic cuts. Geometric shapes appear as the central design for a range of mohair jumpers, and are seen again as gilt-edged detail on warm evening coats. Checks and pattern mingle with classic tartan reborn in contemporary colours to bring a stylish edge to the collection. Fasteners and chunky zips are industrial and functional across knitted tops, breaking up the shapes of outerwear, or interplaying with pleats on top layer kilts, with text and poetry appearing as embroidered detail on shirts. Fabrics include gold lamé, wool gabardine, silk jacquards, wool flannels, wool mohair, silk tartan, wool tartan and sheepskin, all worked in a palette of rich tonal greys, black and white with flashes of gold and pink and warmer highlights. Accessories complement the range perfectly, featuring heavy utility boots and shoes embellished with a zip trims or a platform heels to enhance the silhouette. The spirit of Alexander McQueen lives on in the label that bears his name – it’s clear in the utilitarian, streetwise aesthetic, the signature skull emblems, the cheekiest hint of punk rock. Yet this ready-to-wear collection also looks to the future, with a new refinement and ease – the ideal uniform for the urban warrior.