Simply Abu Dhabi Magazine XVIII

2 6 1 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Thecounterpointsofthecityandtheseaside,theNorthandtheSouthofFrance,arepresented as a journey from one to the other in the clothing. Starting with the formality of elegant and urbane navy suiting – the clothing of the society gentleman – with a focus on the tuxedo and traditional pinstripe, there is amovement towards the nautical. Here, the nautical is subverted and encompassed, its colouring borrowed for the bold graphic thrust of the collection, its detailing revealed as unusual and dynamic, itsmaterialsmade luxurious. The handwritten and hand-drawn sensibility of broken and bold graphic lines – the signifiers ofthebohemianartist–bringthecollectiontoaculmination.Metamorphosingandsubverting the idea of traditional pinstripes, the horizontal line begins to take the place ofthe verticalinthe clothing, eventually becoming the hand-drawnheart at the end. Silhouettes are layered with contrasting graphics, where bold linear patterns predominate. Striped knit vests and T-shirts are idiosyncratically layered over Dior signature shirting – becoming a new formof three piece suit – the handwritten pattern eventually finding its way onto jackets, trousers and bags. A strong sense of colour, particularly navy blue, bright yellow and vivid red, is contrasted against white, neutral grey and light denim. A breaking of the codes and a bending of the rules that supposedly governmenswear inform the quality of the clothing. The clichés and traditions of the bourgeoismasculinewardrobe are looked at afresh, rejuvenated and combinedwith those of the creative. As Kris Van Assche summarised, “There is still the idea of the individual and human in this collection, together with the release and relaxation of getting away from it all, from the city to the sea.” Aperfect way to start the summer. “Traditions have to be maintained so they can be passed on to future generations. In troubled times like ours, we must maintain these traditions which are our luxury and the flower of our civilisation.” Christian Dior