Simply Abu Dhabi Magazine XIX

For fabrics, it draws on inspiration from the archives of Pal Zileri’s parent company, now called Gruppo Forall, and each motif has been reinterpreted and restructured. Houndstooth and Prince of Wales patterns can be seen here, as well as other geometric designs presented as prints and jacquards. Each element is presented with a discreet contemporary sensibility. Throughout, a modern alchemic layering blends the finest yarns – alpaca, cashmere, superfine wool, silk wool blends, mohair, angora – and man-made fibres. Leather outerwear is structured yet deceptively soft. Proportions are classical yet feature an updated flair. Jackets are shorter with narrow, supple lapels, and pants are straight- legged. Overall, there is a sense of tasteful restraint, a simplicity, along a spectrum from the more generous volumes of outerwear to the sleek and figure-hugging formal wear. There are stand-outs here, pieces that the Pal Zileri-dedicated simply cannot afford to miss: like the simple parka, equally modish in sheepskin with a napa finish or in leather and flannel, leather with a feather-filled lining. The contrast is not only a creative quirk but fulfils two different functions. And of course, how could one forget to mention the accessories? The tone in this part of the collection is one of total understatement. Lace-ups with grip-fast soles, bags and backpacks all appear in the finest leathers. Their familiar appearance belies the fact that these are exquisitely crafted by Italian artisans. This collection is one of contrasts. Biker jackets with prominent zippers are worn with unexpected tailored white shirts, whilst T-shirts are worn with formalwear, a likely fashion faux pas if attempted by others who simply don’t have the precedence and pedigree. Such contrasts transcend the traditional boundaries of menswear to respond to the needs of the contemporary sophisticated man, Pal Zileri say. This is a new era for the brand, emphasised as if on purpose by the company’s move to a brand new address: Via Morimondo 2/3, one of the most strategic and innovative fashion districts in Milan. Creative director Krieger sums it up succinctly: “We started from the past. We tried to upgrade the past, and to create an atmosphere around the product. The brand is well named, well established. It was a little bit dusty but we are working to create a new image.”