1 8 7 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I “The challenge, of course, is to address the complexity and speed of today’s world and the individuality of our consumer. The look is sober and buttoned-up, but at the same time there is a lot going on. No fuss, no gimmicks, but a richness that reflects the world we work in,” he said. He focused squarely on the tailored suit and coat, the uniform of one subspecies of the working man, keeping the silhouette lean and sharp and the palette monochrome, and concealing details like the buttons on a coat or the zipper on a cardigan. Materials are luxurious and wide-ranging, reflecting the collection’s essential eclecticism. There is shearling, suede, calf and lambskin, as well as double faced wool and cashmere, and washed wool gabardine. Patterned woollens are custom made in the form of various checks, including gingham and herringbone. There is also double-knit, velvet and spongy fleece, puzzled and intarsia knits, and heavy cottons such as corduroy and moleskin. At times the material is intriguingly faded, splattered, frosted, mended or over-dyed. The bags focus on overnight bags such as the Cabat, rendered this season in graffiti washed vintage leather, and two new designs: the Monaco bag, in crocodile or nappa leather, and the Tour bag, in ostrich or vintage leather. On the more casual side, there are soft backpacks in ostrich or deerskin leather.