Simply Abu Dhabi XX

1 9 3 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I B rioni was founded in Rome in 1945 and immediately developedstronginternational appeal. In 70 years of history it has invented concepts and events such as the men's defilé and the trunk show, the prêt-couture and the industrial made-to-measure. The menswear runway show was invented in 1952 when Gaetano Savini, cofounder of Brioni, decided to tantalise the buyers who had come to Florence's Palazzo Pitti for the couture collections with something different. Savini's concept was straightforwardly revolutionary (you can see it on YouTube): he recruited a handsome model named Angelo Vittucci to wear a dozen suits in a room of mostly female department store buyers. The ploy worked, and Brioni became the first Italian tailoring house to break into the US. The company, now owned by Kering and under the creative directorship of Brendan Mullane, has just marked its 70th anniversary. British-born Brendan Mullane was previously Senior Head Menswear Designer at Givenchy. Prior to this, he held various positions in menswear design at Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Alexander McQueen. Mullane's concept for his autumn- winter 2015/16 collection was to link the form of Vienna's Spanish Riding