2 0 7 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity. For autumn-winter 2015McQmenswear, Burton upheld the house’s culture with a myriad contrasting pieces. This collection combines the formal with the informal, the simple with the complex, the humble with the luxurious and, in a multi-layered style which showcases the brand’s diversity through texture, colour and silhouette. The result is a wardrobe that holds a distinctively unique style. As ever, this collection adopts iconic pieces from youth culture and subverts them to create new hybrids. A classic biker jacket in tough chestnut leather has a rigid silhouette, yet is gently distressed, almost as if in anticipation of an adventurous life. Alternatively, a similar style in soft oatmeal is evocative of classic luxury, as is a classic black version with a deep shearling collar. More formal tailored silhouettes juxtaposed different, yet complimentary, blocks of colour. A traditional black city coat breaks with convention with navy sleeves and a grey collar, while a lean single-breasted jacket reverses these muted colours with a grey sleeve and navy torso. These new juxtapositions are not simply about playing with colour. In keeping with the layered ethos of the collection, a classic three-buttoned overcoat has the sleeves and fur trimmed hood of a parka, as if the two coats are being worn simultaneously. Or, for a more classic combination, a denim jacket sits comfortably under a zipped blouson.