Simply Abu Dhabi Magazine XXIII

Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902), Founder, Tiffany & Co. 1 3 5 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I F or many women, saying ‘yes’ means only one thing: a Tiffany box. For years the New York Maison has been the first and last word in engagement rings, and one ring in particular. Yet it was revolutionary when it debuted. The Tiffany setting really shook things up when it was introduced 130 years ago. Prior to 1886, diamonds were set into a band or bezel, often closed at the back, holding stones close. Designs were fussy and ornate. Charles Lewis Tiffany broke new ground by daringly setting the stone on six prongs, lifting it above the band and allowing light to shine through, enhancing each stone’s brilliance. He tapered the simple band beneath for comfort and produced the enormously popular ring with a range of diamond sizes, from a modest 0.18 carat to hefty stones with matching price tags. Decades later it’s still hard to beat the iconic design and it remains the most popular style among young couples by a long stretch. Other houses even produce rings with the Tiffany setting, a byword for the six-pronged solitaire setting. Years later, the jewellery house and its little turquoise boxes are much coveted by women around the world, the name Tiffany synonymous with luxury, glamour and love. That’s not just for the incredible service that Tiffany prides itself on – it’s also for the quality assurance. The diamonds in the Tiffany setting have to pass the most stringent grading standards before being allowed into the workshop. Melvyn Kirtley, the company’s chief gemologist since 1985, says he will reject 99.95% of the world’s finest diamonds, “because there’s a difference between quality and Tiffany quality. I will grade beyond the 4Cs to a fifth quality – presence – because unless it has a superior brilliance, scintillation and dispersion, it’s not a Tiffany diamond.” Reassuringly ruthless. The setters take their work every bit as seriously: “I know I’m working with the finest diamonds, and it’s my responsibility to create a ring that meets the level of excellence that Tiffany demands,” says Tomas Dziwura, who has worked with the house since 2001. “I will craft a setting so flawlessly that the exquisite diamond it holds seems to float. Just as it was done 130 years ago. People associate engagement rings with the Tiffany setting; it’s the best-known ring in the world.” Its ageless simplicity is part of its enduring appeal, pared down to the bare minimum of components; modern then and crisply clean now. The fact that the design hasn’t changed since 1886 attests to the flawless blueprint, although it will be debuting in rose gold as well as the standard platinum, white gold and yellow gold later this year. And to mark the special anniversary year, the jeweller will be gifting a silver ring box with the sale of all Tiffany engagement rings with the iconic setting.