Simply Abu Dhabi Magazine XXIII

1 5 6 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Because the designers had determined that some element from each theme would inflect each look, that parka was teamed with a black feathered and sequined dress (whose length would have scandalised its source Victorians), plus body-stocking tattoos derived from Japanese illustration and sharp heels armoured by lamellar panels. And so this power-of-three collection went. A key garment was the combat pant, slung low on the hip and cut just south of the knee; later there were boned jodhpur variants. The military references spanned camouflage – on that parka, combat pant, and a panel-shouldered M-65 – but also expanded into a scarlet-piped indigo and regimental uniform. One handbag featured a cartridge-case strap, and there was a submariner knit crop top in non-authentic but comely olive. Victoriana was turned inside out via external girdling and fast-and-loose lengths. Fringed curtain tassels jiggled on accessories, caplet shoulders and earrings, while high-fitted black satin jackets with hard emphasised shoulders and slim long gowns were lined with Victorian widower black tulle, lace ruffles and beading. Comprising three far-flung themes, this collection could be considered a gamble, but this season Dsquared2’s crazed combination conspired to form a pleasing solution.