Simply Abu Dhabi XXVII

CHANEL Feathers treated as fur, a graphic A-line silhouette, the jacket interpreted as a long tunic or double breasted with long sleeves, and tubular dresses are the key features of Chanel’s autumn/winter 2017/18 haute couture collection. Inspired by Paris and its most iconic monument, the Eiffel Tower, the collection is an ode to the city of lights and love by Chanel’s enigmatic figure at the helm, Karl Lagerfeld. On the runway, next to the 38-metre-high reproduction of the Eiffel Tower, replica chairs fromParisian parks create a relaxed mood and contribute to the chic Parisian attitude of the collection. Mohair, tweeds, wool, black silk tulle, double-faced satin and chiffon worked by the skilled hands of Chanel’s tailors are the fabrics used in this collection, all of which stand out and feel contemporary despite being traditional textiles. The volumes are straight but the coats are oversized with cinched waists. The collection unites day and evening-wear in an interplay of construction and deconstruction of the silhouette. Iconic pieces feature strong Chanel codes, such as the jacket that becomes a statement of modern Parisian elegance – bolder and less feminine. In fact, the coats appear to fit like a second skin and the shoulders stand out with great arching – a masterpiece of construction. The footwear was striking with booties and thigh-high boots being a continuation of the collection’s spirit – perfectly fitting with the outfits and playing with new ways to define women’s proportions and beauty. The penultimate dress of the show was an Eiffel Tower-silhouette ball gown comprised of tiers of black tulle edged with giant feathery rosettes. These feathers, when turned around to the back, form the shape of the instantly recognisable monument. At the end of the second show, Karl Lagerfeld was awarded the Grand Vermeil de la Ville de Paris by Anne Hidalgo, Mayor of Paris. The medal, the highest honour in the city of Paris, rewards his creativity and his impact on the influence of Parisian fashion around the world. 1 1 0 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I