Simply Abu Dhabi XXVIII

8 4 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I T he venerable French jewellery, watchmaking and perfume company Van Cleef & Arpels, founded by Alfred Van Cleef and his uncle Salomon Arpels in Paris in 1896, has a rich and illustrious heritage to draw inspiration from as the business continues to thrive more than 120 years on. When looking for a seed that can grow into a new collection, the artists and designers at Van Cleef & Arpels can delve into a fascinating patrimony department and find all manner of triggers for the imagination. The newly launched Bouton d’or jewellery collection, wonderfully delicate and embracing pink and white gold, comprises five new pieces inspired by the paillette motif. The skills of the artisans include the intricate assembly of different elements and working with precious metals to create miniature works of art worthy of Van Cleef & Arpels. The paillette motif was created in the mid- 1940s, a vibrant time in France in the wake of the Second World War with the fragrance of peace and liberation in the air. In the world of fine jewellery there was a re-embracing of yellow gold, along with rubies, diamonds and turquoise. According to Catherine Cariou, director of heritage at Van Cleef & Arpels, “The yellow gold reveals its full splendour. The motif appears in two forms: it can be convex or concave, or it can be curved. At the centre of the paillette motif there is always a small closed setting motif incorporating rubies, turquoise or diamonds. The first paillette motif appeared on quite imposing torque necklaces, but also on single or crossed bracelets. The paillette then appears on the ballerinas. The ballerinas are iconic Van Cleef & Arpels designs, born in the mid- 1940s in the US, and many of these ballerina tutus were created using these paillette motifs.” The Bouton d’or collection includes a necklace, a ring, a bracelet, earrings and a pendant, marrying pink and white gold with the dazzle of diamonds. The effect of alternating colours and closed settings is a subtle gradation of shades. The gold’s twin colours play with reflected light and draw the eye in to the piece. This attention to colour is paramount and is complimented by intricate three-dimensional volume: whether concave or convex, the paillette motif provides the pieces with fluidity and relief. These five new creations join the existing Bouton d’or creations, which are all distinguished by diamonds with mother- of-pearl, carnelian and pink gold or onyx, chrysoprase and yellow gold. Since 2016, the paillette motif has taken on a new lease of life within the Bouton d’or collection, with its precious palette of materials. VAN C L E E F & A R P E L S BOUTON D’OR COLLECTION