Simply Abu Dhabi XXIX

2 3 4 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I RALPH&RUSSO From London to Asia, this is the journey that Tamara Ralph, Creative Director of the London-based haute couture brand Ralph & Russo, has made to get inspired for the new Spring 2018 haute couture collection of the house. Physically and mentally, Ms. Ralph travels into the East, recreating through a careful selection of fabrics, a glamourous 50s shaped Asian idea. The silhouette depicted in the collection has a kimono style that recalls the tight and fascinating world of the geishas. Unique details appear in the closing of suit jackets or in the drapes of the Indian sari, while soft and impalpable pareos bring us to the beautiful and relaxed coasts of Bali. The entire collection is a tribute and a love letter to the Orient. Somewhat appropriately, silk dominated the collection and what stood out from the show is the variety of colours and choices presented to the potential Ralph & Russo customer. The colours range from flashy red, acid green (a true must have!), pink, white and yellow, with touches of soft beiges and grey that give a more aristocratic and daily attitude to the clothes. The fabrics used are silk crêpe, gazer, silk satin, tulle, jacquard, chiffon ruffles and also ostrich feathers: an exercise of opulent and yet contemporary beauty. ZUHAIRMURAD During Haute Couture week, everything seems possible. The Hotel Potoki, one of the most aristocratic and “conservative” hotels in the French capital, was transformed for the Zuhair Murad Haute Couture show into a Native American camp. Traditional-style tents we’re used to seeing in old American westerns were recreated and placed in the hotel salons. Here, exotic-looking models with soft touches of tribal makeup walked down the runway. The first examples of the show were the most Indian inspired, with fringes and strong colours like red and black coming forth. Then, after this first phase, the show was dominated by the iconic and sensual Zuhair Murad women, wearing adorned and opulent dresses laden with Swarovski crystals. The most strikingly beautiful dress of the collection was a hand-painted gown on which antique scenes of hunting were reproduced, recalling the cave paintings made by primitive man hundreds of thousands of years ago.