Simply Abu Dhabi XXX

2 1 6 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I DIOR G raphic men’s tailoring, and diaphanous evening gowns inspired by Surrealist artist Claude Cahun were Maria Grazia Chiuri’s main themes for Dior’s pre-fall 2018 women’s collection. Surrealism, which was a key inspiration for the fall/winter couture show, has been reinterpreted for pre-fall. If for haute couture the muse was Leanor Fini, this time it is Claude Chaun, who is known for her photographic self-portraits in which she adopts a variety of guises in a gender-ambiguous way. Maria Grazie Chiuri combines all these elements using, like Monsieur Dior, an architectural approach to tailoring, using masculine fabrics and giving them a feminine attitude and silhouette. A knee-length kilt has been presented in two versions: a black polka-dot tulle version paired with a tuxedo jacket; and a more traditional checked wool alternative topped with an oversized mohair sweater. Trompe-l’oeil effects on coats or dresses are also vital for this collection, which mixes the ethereal femininity for which Maria Grazia is famous, with the more masculine. The androgynous femininity is evoked well by young model, Ruth Bell, who season after season embodies the feminist spirit of Chiuri. Organza, wool, jersey, tweed, velvet and chiffon were the fabrics used for this collection: stand out pieces are a cape- sleeved black velvet gown spliced with insets of pleated navy chiffon and a sheer corset under a graphite-black cage dress. The shoes are flat and comfortable while the bags are intended to be a statement of a strong woman with a proud personality.