Simply Abu Dhabi XXXI

ZUHAIR MURAd O pulence is Zuhair Murad’s key word for his Fall Winter 2018-19 haute couture collection dedicated to Imperial Russia. The designer’s fantasy journey led him to an opulent Russia ruled by the Tsars, where empresses like Elizabeth of Russia (1709-1762) or her successor Catherine the Great (1762-1796) amazed the world with their luxury, opulence and beauty. Murad played with different themes from this nation: from the military to the ball gowns, the Russian wardrobe imagined by the Lebanese designer is a majestic one. The show opened with Alessandra Ambrosio wearing a hand embroidered short dress that reminded us of the Cossacks, after followed a military suit that recalled those worn by the Tsars during the Napoleonic age. The whole show was a crescendo of opulence, from black embroidered suits and gowns to red, grey, blue, purple and gold dresses. Brocade, venetian velour, satin duchess, silk and chiffon were used to create Murad’s Russian fantasy that stood out its preciousness and for the reference to the splendour that made this country great. The embroidery and the beaded patterns hand-sewn on bustiers, gowns, dresses or jacket conjured up the glory of Imperial Russia: the royal eagle motifs, organic motifs, arabesques that reminiscent of the Fabergé eggs or crowns. The whole show was a juxtaposition of man and woman, military and fanciful, bold and gentle, creating unique contrasts and an interplay of roles against a backdrop of splendour.