Simply Abu Dhabi XXXI

BERLUTI B erluti’s creative director Haider Ackermann has always been known for being very private and restrained, both in his personal life as well as in his fashion style. This season, he reflects on how man’s personality is revealed through simple and down-to- earth clothes. As a keynote of the collection, he declared ‘In a world that is louder than ever, I like the idea of a quiet man. Serene, cool, collected, yet standing on his own two feet.’ So the entire collection was a minimalist interplay of simple shapes and silhouettes, yet rich in hidden details and artisanal craftmanship. Ackermann has always had purity in his eponymous line, and at Berluti, his vision transforms the brand into a contemporary yet introspective luxury brand. The silhouette is round on the shoulders and slender at the legs, making, as always for Haider, the jacket the most important item of the collection. The colour palette extends from white to camel and black to olive, sky blue, orange and purple. Nylon jackets are handcrafted from a single piece of fabric while leather coats are seamless. The most eccentric part of the collection is the lining in which flashes of colour combine iconic and classic looks: a leather trench coat is lined in grey cashmere, and an understated reversible black cashmere coat reveals ivory silk pinstripes. Tailoring fuses with Ackermann’s touch, becoming lighter than ever by adding shoulder pads on jackets. The Japanese brushed cashmere used for knitwear creates unusually soft sweaters, while hand-cut velvet in the trousers and jackets lends a traditional touch. Berluti’s much-loved accessories such as its weekender bags, tote bags and backpacks are in, while the leather and silver cigarette case, the boldest and most luxurious men’s accessory of the season, made its debut. Shoes, a strong brand product, welcome Ackermann’s new Alessandro 0 Cut boot, while ankle boots in venetian leather and crocodile are an evolution from last season’s cowboy boots.