Simply Abu Dhabi XXXI

ERMENEGILdO ZEGNA COUTURE A lessandro Sartori has brought Ermenegildo Zegna to a whole new level, transforming its classic and tailored elegance into a contemporary sartorial style. This Fall Winter 2018-19 collection by Ermenegildo Zegna couture was inspired by Snow, a collection of photographs of frozen landscapes presented by artist Thomas Flechtner, who was actively involved in the creation of the show space which was submerged by snow, with models walking on the snow-carpeted runway. Sartori’s transformation of Zegna led him to create a modular wardrobe that fuses sports and tailoring, indoors and outdoors with a sharp yet soft silhouette. ‘I am interested in expanding traditional techniques, creating hybrid shapes that are apt for new uses, getting contemporary function out of traditional craft. We work around sartorial neologisms, which this season I have labelled with another neologism: Snowriting. Formal merges with informal in a sublime snowy scenario,’ declared Mr. Alessandro Sartori. So, on the runway there were geometric necklines, coats and jackets constructed in the new ‘one ½ breasted’ construction (a tailored construction that is halfway between single and double breasted). The duvet takes on the form of a wool anorak and knitwear doubles as outerwear matched with blousons and trousers that replace the traditional suit. Cashmere jacquard, compact mohair, brushed alpaca, wool and cotton corduroy are the fabrics used for the collection. The colours are natural: a mix of neutral tones of edelweiss white, pebble grey, birch beige with notes of vicuña, bulb red, pine green and dashes of crocus purple, chanterelle yellow and azalea orange. What’s important in this collection by Sartori is that he encapsulates the idea of natural beauty, using natural fabrics and natural colours. For instance, the new Oasi Cashmere, which features an innovative sustainable dyeing process where colours are obtained exclusively from natural elements such as flowers, herbs, wood, leaves and roots, is Zegna’s ultimate textile statement and sense of luxury. To be cool, you need to be tailored (for example the XXX stitch trademark by Zegna that is used as a jacquard or logo) but also sustainable in the choice of textiles you are wearing.