Simply Abu Dhabi XXXII

I t was the end of Fall 1919, one century ago, when Gabrielle Chanel presented a visionary collection of a few elements intended for holiday resorts, in particular Biarritz. This was the birth of a brand-new fashion identity, that of the Cruise Collection. Perhaps she was not entirely aware of how much she was ahead of her time, but the fashion world quickly noticed her quiet yet great revolution. The clothes in that collection were like those she had already paraded in Paris, yet there was something extraordinarily different: lighter and more comfortable. Each piece of the Collection was designed to be softer and fluid and to be worn more practically. They were ideal for yachting, seaside resorts and beaches; in one phrase, to enjoy the pleasures of life. Despite this new functionality, the items did not lose the allure that immediately distinguished Madame Chanel’s creations and that, after more than a century, is still the solid hallmark of the brand. This was the start of the history of Chanel’s Cruise Collections and for the two following seasons, Gabrielle Chanel continued with her creations, responding to her own needs. She added suits and evening dresses especially created for holidays, and some items for colder destinations, such as St. Moritz or Gstaad in winter months. All the most prestigious fashion magazines of the time noticed Madame Chanel’s innovative vision of fashion: from Harper’s Bazaar to Vogue, nobody could ignore the lady who was changing the aesthetics of those years. She succeeded by throwing her heart and soul into the creation with her unique and dynamic personality as her main source of inspiration. Spurred on by a strong sense of freedom, she visibly understood what women were dreaming of: a fashion which could respond to their needs from the present to the future. This legacy was expertly continued by Karl Lagerfeld when he arrived at Chanel in 1983. With a deep understanding of the past, however, Lagerfeld succeeded in his debut by infusing new lifeblood into Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld thus transformed Cruise-wear into a line that anticipates the warmer days to come, a completely renewed wardrobe. With Monsieur Karl, the Cruise has become a collection in its own right. From this time on, Cruise (or Resort) collections embody a wide range CHANEL CRUISE 2018-19: The quintessence of luxury vacations by Ivan Allegranti 1 5 0 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I