SimplyAbuDhabi XXXIII

ULyAnA SErGEEnKo Ulyana Sergeenko’s haute couture collection has been undoubtedly one of the most original and spectacular of the season. Arriving at the show’s location, the Marigny theatre, next to the Champs Elysees, the first questions that came to mind were—where is the runway? Where will the models walk? i was expecting a classic runway show but i was completely mistaken. in fact, when the lights went down and the curtains of the theatre revealed the stage, a large screen came down to the runway and started the projection of a movie: “Sisterhood” by Ulyana Sergeenko and directed by acclaimed fashion photographer Ellen Von Unwerth. The movie, which takes inspiration from the novel “And Quiet Flows the don” by nobel prize winner Mikhail Sholokhov and was readapted as a movie directed by Sergei Gerasimov in 1957, tells the story of Cossack women during the dramatic days of the russian revolution and civil war in the early 20th century. Sergeenko reinterprets this movie, in which she herself acts, by telling the story of different women that unite, interact and share their energy to help each other. After the movie ended, models started to walk onto the theatre’s stage scenography of an enchanted forest. in terms of fashion, Ulyana Sergeenko’s spring 2019 haute couture collection is an ode to russia and its powerful women: nipped waist silhouettes, feminine-yet-strong dresses, blouses, aprons and shapely coats were also featured. The message of the clothes is strong yet frightening, but their mysterious and feminine side fascinated everyone. Landscape motifs are women in aprons, the traditional Krestetsky stitch is also included in scarves, white shirts and aprons and the flowery embroidery, which depicts the flowers of the don (russia’s second river after the Volga) embellishes dresses and silk capes. The whole collection was spectacularly orchestrated with a message of unity and equality between women, making them more empowered than ever, even in their wedding dress—white, of course, and made of taffeta. Textures included in the collection were silk, jersey, mesh, taffeta, velvet, wool and cashmere mixed with lace, leather, goat and fox fur. The colour palette was composed of black, white, grey with shades of beige, mustard and ochre, red, dusty pink, muted coral, burgundy, ruby, emerald green and cold blue. For the accessories, wide leather belts with flower motifs with pouches attached, as well as multiple-row necklaces, earrings and boots with hidden platforms. At the end of the show, both Ellen Von Unwerth and Ulyana Sergeenko took a bow with tumultuous applause. Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019