Simply Abu Dhabi XXXIV

T his bold and distinctive new watch has received mixed reactions from watch lovers and collectors. Many people objecting to the bulky size of the watch, but it actually appears bigger than it really is in photographs – however, on the wrist, it doesn’t feel oversized at all. Yes, it is a statement and it is undeniably masculine, but it’s not over the top. The history of this daring new design dates back to 1967, when Tudor, who had been supplying the US Navy with divers’ watches since the late 1950s, began development of a technical model to replace the Oyster Prince Submariner 7928 reference, which was standard issue at that time. This new watch needed to meet a set of specifications decreed by the American government and incorporated the results of the latest research into functionality and ergonomics carried out by the brand’s engineers. A development phase was launched which resulted in the production of prototypes, as well as a patent for a hitherto unseen function. This ambitious project, which carried the code name Commando, never came to fruition as the regular Tudor divers’ watch, reference 7016, was eventually adopted by the US Navy. In 2019, the Tudor Black Bay P01 model, which stands for prototype 1, is inspired by a prototype developed as part of this study and kept in the brand’s archives, and now is the time for its unique aesthetic to be brought to life and mass-produced some 50 years later. The unique feature on the P01 is the hinged end-link system on the bidirectional rotating bezel at 12 o'clock. This is a recreation of an end-link system on a prototype watch that was the subject of a patent in 1968. The steel in use back then was susceptible to rust and so the end-link system allowed the bezel to be removed and cleaned after use in a dive. Now that the steel used is resistant to corrosion, this locking and disassembling system for the bezel is not necessary for maintenance but is rather for aesthetics and to ensure the bezel does not actually move accidentally when it has been set for use. It’s a novelty essentially, and Tudor is brave enough to experiment and allow fans to make of it what they will. The Black Bay line is hugely popular and whether this is a commercial success or not, it’s worthwhile for the sheer retro fun of it. Another interesting quirk is the winding crown at 4 o'clock and the prominent end-links of the 60s model. While the whole look is 60s vintage, the manufacture movement is super modern. The Manufacture Calibre MT5612 that drives the Black Bay P01 model displays the hours, minutes, seconds and date functions. Its finishes are typical of Tudor’s Manufacture calibres. Its openwork rotor is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and plate have alternating polished sand- blasted surfaces and laser decorations. Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge fixed in two points. Thanks to these qualities, together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Calibre MT5612 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Finally, with a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on Friday evening and put it back on again onMonday morning without having to re-set and wind it. The Tudor Black Bay P01 is presented on a rubber based strap with a brown leather trim and the signature snowflake motif is found on the back. Tudor BlackBay P01