Simply Abu Dhabi XXXV

BERLUTI 1 3 4 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Berluti Menswear Autumn/Winter 2019 F or some of the world’s leading fashion houses, it has been a tumultuous year behind the scenes, with more than a few of the top designers in menswear moving jobs. But even amidst all the industry shuffling, Kris Van Assche’s appointment as creative director of Berluti stood out. Now, nearly a year after leaving Dior, the eyes of the fashion world have been on the Belgian native, as everyone wonders what the one-time “bad boy” of couture would do with the refined Italian brand, renowned for its luxurious leather. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti,” Van Assche has said. “I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.” The Autumn/Winter 2019 collection will delight both long- standing Berluti aficionados as well as fans of the designer’s trademark subtle subversion. At Dior, Van Assche was known for starting his runway shows with a black suit. In his first show for Berluti, he has created a stunning suit in brown leather, hand-dyed to integrate with Berluti’s signature patina. It’s the perfect harmonisation of the designer’s trademark codes with the esteemed legacy of Berluti. Indeed, as Van Assche himself says of his client, “This is a man who likes the best of all worlds.” Impeccable tailoring suited is at the forefront, with gorgeous double- breasted overcoats, suit jackets with a defined shoulder, and the classic slim- fitted trousers Van Assche devotees love. The elegant leather goods in the collection, such as a croc briefcase and steel-toed shoes, work seamlessly with the suiting. While there’s a respectful nod to tradition, there’s still quite a bit of fun and adventure to be had. The trademark leather patinas appear in a range of new colours – reds and pinks, blues and greens – which also carry across to the collection, inspired by the marble tables at the Berluti’s manufacture in Ferrara, Italy, where artisans dye the leather and leave behind delicate colours that seep into the marble in intricate patterns. A print inspired by this pattern appears on silk shirts and coats in the collection. It’s an impressively rich and tonal collection that pairs deep colours and lush textures in new and exciting ways. We can’t wait to see what Van Assche does next at Berluti.