Simply Abu Dhabi XXXV

1 4 7 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Bo t t ega Vene t a Women Au t umn/Wi n t e r 2019 T alk about big shoes to fill. The 32-year-old Brit Daniel Lee, newly appointed creative director at Bottega Veneta, not only had to step in for the renowned Tomas Maier, often credited for making the house the major “stealth wealth” player it is today over the course of his 17-year tenure. But Lee is also closely associated with Phoebe Philo, his former boss at Céline, a woman whose aesthetic is so revered she has something close to cult status in the fashion world. With leaving Céline in 2018 and her future plans uncertain, attention has shifted to her young protégé to fill the gap she’s left behind. There’s no doubt the young designer rose to the dual challenge with his first major collection, upholding the essential codes of the beloved Bottega Veneta brand whilst referencing the clean minimalism and sheer wearability that Céline fans crave. The result? There’s a new favourite amongst the fashion establishment and Insta influencers alike. As befits the legacy of Bottega Veneta, leather is at the forefront of the statement pieces. The elegant black dress is rendered in the most delicate and drapey use of the material, while the bold motorcycle trousers and jacket are presented in a robust brown leather with design details evocative of a futuristic fantasy. Everywhere in between, there are exciting contrasts: a black leather trouser paired with a delicate embellished blouse, tuxedo detailing on a menswear-inspired shirt over a feminine quilted skirt in seafoam green. Volume and proportion are key themes for the collection, notably in the outerwear, with Lee presenting an array of exceptional coats. The signature woven leather – intrecciato – that has made Bottega Veneta shoes and bags so coveted appears in a showstopper of a leather coat, in brown, white-on- black or burgundy, with a tie waist and full sleeves. The unique texture created by the weaving treatment gives the leather a soft and fluid movement and an undeniable tactile appeal. The long metallic coats, ethereally light and shimmering, are another highlight, and bring a fresh sense of femininity to collection, which is otherwise fairly minimalist. Dresses are fitted, elegant, and subdued, but bring fresh visual interest in the crescent-moon necklines. Flashes of colour are less frequent, as the palette is heavily weighted to neutrals, but when they appear, they absolutely pop. Look no further than the belted orange knitwear dress to light up a room. At the Milan show, Lee greeted the press informally but otherwise kept a low profile. With his first major runway, it’s clear he was there to let the clothes do the talking – and we can’t wait to hear what else he has to say. bottega veneta