SimplyAbuDhabi XLIII

An openworked movement with a three-dimensional architecture First released in 2022 for the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, Calibre 2972 combines a selfwinding mechanism with a flying tourbillon. Its highly stylised and multilayered openworked architecture has been conceived to offer symmetry while bestowing the watch with a unique 3D effect. This movement builds on the age-old openworking techniques that have been reshaping what is possible with wristwatch design since the 1930s. The beauty and finesse of the mechanism are revealed by removing as much material from the mainplate and bridges as possible to let light pass through, without impairing its functions. Leveraging advanced manufacturing technologies, the preliminary geometries of the mainplate and bridges have been cut through computer numerical control (CNC) machining, before being perfected by electric discharge machining (EDM). This manufacturing process enables the removal of small amounts of material with extreme precision to reach the desired shape. The geometrical openworked bridges and mainplate have been decorated with horizontal and vertical hand- finishing, accentuating depth and play of light. In addition, the other movement components present refined Haute Horlogerie decorations including satin, circular and sunray brushing, snailing, as well as polished chamfers. The polished V-angles that can be admired on both sides of the watch reflect the meticulous handiwork that went into their realisation as this level of craftsmanship can only be achieved by hand. A legacy of gold watches A noble metal par excellence , gold has been revered over time for its rarity, value, aesthetic quality, durability and technical properties. In addition to being resistant to corrosion, oxidation and discolouration, gold is a biocompatible and malleable material easier to work than other metals. Its softness and workability have made it ideal for the fabrication of jewellery, watches and other intricate decorative objects. Symbols of wealth and prestige, these gold creations have been decorated with artisanal techniques ranging from engraving and enamelling to gemsetting, among many others. The first Royal Oak model to incorporate gold was the Royal Oak II (Model 8638), the 29 mm women’s version designed by Jacqueline Dimier, which was first released in stainless steel in 1976. A year later, this timepiece was reinterpreted in a two-tone design combining yellow gold with stainless steel and in a full yellow gold version, followed in 1978 by a very limited white gold iteration. In 1977, the Manufacture also released its first 39 mm 5402 Royal Oak models in yellow gold, white gold and in a two-tone combination, as well as a new 35 mm intermediate size, Model 4100, available in steel, yellow gold and two-tone. From 1979, nearly three-quarters of the Royal Oak watches were partially or entirely made of gold—a precious material that has remained a staple of the collection to this day even when the price of gold soared in the 1980s. Less common at the time, pink gold appeared in the Royal Oak collection in the mid-1980s and slowly gained ground across the Manufacture’s collections. In the 2000s, the demand for yellow gold watches faded in favour of models in pink gold, whose subtle, yet warm hues conquered the hearts. Today, pink, white and yellow gold are commonly used throughout the watchmaking industry, alongside other proprietary 18-carat alloys, including Everose Gold (Rolex), Sedna Gold and MoonshineTM Gold (Omega), King Gold and Magic Gold (Hublot) as well as Hard Gold (IWC). The new Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in sand gold builds on this longstanding legacy of gold watches while continuing Audemars Piguet’s material exploration and diversification. Coming alive in the light thanks to the alloy’s ever-changing colour, it offers new aesthetic possibilities merging contemporary design with endless elegance. 206 | Simply Abu Dhabi