SimplyAbuDhabi XLIV

B O G H O S S I A N contrasting colours in the scheme used at the palace itself – the two layers feature green jadeite, pink opal and turquoise, superimposed with purple sapphires, yellow diamonds and spessartite garnets. MYSORE Known as the “City of Palaces”, Mysore is best known for its most recent and imposing residence, also known as the Amba Villas Palace, commissioned in the late 19th Century by the Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV and designed by British architect Henry Irwin. The ceremonial Durbar Hall, whose majestic arches and pillars are reflected in the sets, was added in the 1930s. The selection of precious stones reflects the colours of this ornate residence, with elements of the interior architecture appearing as details. Crafted in tone-on-tone turquoise, blue topaz and hand-cut diamond baguettes, the Durbar Blue pieces echo the shapes of the arches and moulding in the great hall, a dramatic design that frames the face just as the spectacular arches frame their own décor, creating a sense of repetition and infinity. Sculpted lapis lazuli suggests the form and shade of the hall’s imposing pillars. The striking ring is jointed to follow the movements of the finger. Aquamarines, yellow diamonds, turquoise, chrysoprase and red spinel come together for the Amba Arches ensemble in an architectural homage to the palace’s columns and their characteristic colour scheme. The pieces also display the influence of antique Indian jewellery and craftsmanship – the ring in particular reflects the traditional use of a counterweight at the base. PERSEPOLIS The legendary palace of Persepolis rose in the Zagros mountains of modern-day Iran in the 6th Century BC. This royal complex was uniquely spectacular both for its location and scale, intended as a ceremonial location as well as a residence. Even today, the ruins bear witness to the imposing nature of the remaining raised platforms and staircases. The bricks used in the construction of the frescoes and gates were glazed with blue and yellow to represent sacred scenes and creatures, colours remaining intrinsically linked with Mesopotamian archaeology, in an era where pigments were a sign of great wealth. The Babylon Gate necklace is a statement piece featuring bold shapes and a use of symmetry to give a stately feel, in a contemporary interpretation of the visual legacy of Persepolis. Carved lapis lazuli, turquoise, and coral – the same stones as used in antiquity – echo the contrasting shades of blue and orange from the architecture, worked with techniques of hard stone inlay like those used in the craftsmanship of the period. Triangular and marquise shaped diamonds bring a further element of sparkle and grandeur. The Lapis Lotus ensemble features a stylized interpretation of the flower carried by the figures on the many reliefs of Persepolis. The lotus itself represents rebirth and eternal existence in Mesopotamian mythology – its bloom is worked here in marquise diamonds, turquoise, lapis lazuli and spessartite garnet. TAMAN SARI Taman Sari, the “garden of flowers”, was built in the late 18th Century as a series of buildings and pavilions on the site of a bathing spring by the Yogyakarta Sultans. Unique of its kind, this building centred around a series of pools designed for ritual bathing, decorated with statues and carvings representing the local nature and wildlife. Certain pools and buildings were said to be connected only by hidden, underwater tunnels to ensure private access for the Sultan and his men. Though many of the elements have been destroyed, there remains a sense of peace and tranquillity about Taman Sari. Like precious drops of water on the skin, the Flowing Droplets set evokes the unique shade of the sacred pools through the use of diamonds and Paraiba tourmalines – the highly distinctive colour of the Paraibas was an obvious choice to reflect the subtle glow of the water. Cut in both cabochon and pear shapes, interspersed with marquise diamonds, they echo the fluid motion of drops across the body, a visual effect emphasized by a mesh setting, allowing the jewels to sit closer to the skin and shift softly with movements. The Floral Cascade ensemble is inspired by the lotus shapes on the fountains at the centre of each pool. Tassels of flowing baguette diamonds and emeralds represent the movement of the water, held by heart-shaped emeralds arranged in a flower motif, suggesting the scent emerging from a perfumed garden. The gentle motion of the stones creates a shimmering feel, giving a sense of magic, like the ethereal fantasy of the ancient palace garden and its fragrances. TAMAN SARI Simply Abu Dhabi | 187