SimplyAbuDhabi IX
beautifully by the mechanism’s matt-black colating and the case’s sumptuous rose gold, not to mention the bespoke Simply Abu Dhabi coat of arms, printed on the sapphire crystal at 12 o’clock. “Turn the watch over, however,” says Hira, “and this watch’s most vividMiddle Easternmotif strikes you straight away: two gleaming skeleton wheels, standing proud of the bridges. Their ornate pattern is directly inspired by decorations adorning the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.” But the brilliance and sheer desirability of this wristwatch does not stop there. Your attention is drawn to the bezel and its incredible black-spinel gemstones, aligned perfectly with invisible settings and glittering with a deep, ethereal intensity. These valuable jewels are a source of particular pride to Georg Bartkowiak, who owns the business with watchmaker Hermann Grieb and decorator Jochen Benzinger. “They’re not black diamonds, contrary to what you might think,” he explains. “Black diamonds are actually very commonplace nowadays… plus when you look at them with a microscope, their surface is actually quite dull. “Black spinel, on the other hand, has a wonderfully smooth, clean surface and it is hardly ever used in watchmaking.” Closely related to the ruby, spinel usually glows deep red or pink – it is almost unheard-of to use the ultra-rare black variety. What’s more, these magnificent gems are said to be associated with love and passion, helping the wearer to put their ego aside and become devoted to the object of their affection. Spinel is also a protective stone, relieving sadness and helping to re-establish or resolve relationships. But what makes this gemstone even more precious, and what elevates the Black Tulip Sabudha Imperial wristwatch to even greater heights of wonder, is the mythology surrounding spinel and the many priceless stones chronicled throughout history. “When we were thinking about using spinel,” says Bartkowiak, “it was actually our goldsmith Albrecht Bolz who told us the story of the Black Prince’s Ruby – one of the most famous gemstones in the world. It is a red spinel, originating from the ruby mines in Badakshan (present-day Tajikistan) and the world’s biggest uncut example ever, at 170 carats.” It is currently mounted, pride of place, upon Great Britain’s Imperial State Crown. But the tempestuous history of the ‘Great Balas Ruby’ dates back as far as the mid-14th century, when Spain’s Pedro the Cruel presented it to ‘Black Prince’ Edward of Woodstock, eldest son of Edward III, after his victory over Pedro’s revolting brother at the battle of Najera in 1367. Over the proceeding centuries, the spinel passed along several state crowns prior to settling at the Tower of London, including Henry V’s bejewelled helmet at the Battle of Agincourt, Richard III’s helmet at Bosworth and the State Crowns of James I and Charles II. “As Simply Abu Dhabi is one of the only publications to be distributed to the Royal Palatial Homes and Offices of the Ruling families of Abu Dhabi,” says Hira, “it made sense to use gemstones that had a royal association. 2 1 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I Personalisation for Arnie & Jordana with their initials A&J, carved in Rose Gold on the reverse side
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