Simply Abu Dhabi Magazine XVI

1 5 7 S I M P LY A B U DH A B I The theme of the collection has been dubbed ‘Beauty and the Beast’ – and, indeed, some of the looks would not seem out of place in a book of fairytales. At the ‘Beauty’ end of the spectrum, you’ll find delicate, feminine embellishments such as lace and bows, in addition to swingy skirts and swooping capes. But this is not an ethereal, airy-fairy collection; the pieces are grounded by luxe but substantial materials, solid dimensions, and at the runway show were paired with leather jackets, androgynous cape-coats, and biker boots – albeit ones festooned with giant ribbon laces. Other accessories likewise have strong presence: square bags in dark leather, wide belts with large metal grommets and ribbons, printed scarves in luxurious materials. Dresses run the gamut from short, mid-60s inspired party dresses, to lacy A-line skirted frocks, to stunning – and yes, regal – column gowns. Two such standouts feature striking high collars, one in a tiered lace and the other in a scalloped organza. There’s more than a little of the Victorian dandy elsewhere in the collection as well, particularly in a fantastic trouser suit fastened with a bow at the collar, and the puff-sleeved high-neck blouses, narrowed with ribbon at the elbow and wrist. Knitwear is textured and voluminous; the chunky sweaters complement skinny cropped trousers or short pleated skirts in perfect proportion. At the other end of the spectrum: ‘the Beast’. Of course these are not beastly at all, but incredibly lush and dramatic statement pieces brought to magical life as if from a storybook: a hooded cape coat made entirely of feathers, a trapeze dress flocked with organza and ribbons giving it endless dimensions. These pieces are romantic but not flimsy, brooding but not sinister, inspiring flights of fancy, but without the darkness often seen in past McQueen’s collections. The Autumn/Winter 2014 line is uniquely imaginative, uniquely British and uniquely Sarah Burton.